B&B Spotlight: Unique, Custom-Made Engagement Rings By Independent Jewelry Designers in NYC

 

The tradition of the engagement ring can be traced back to ancient Rome when a bride-to-be was given two rings – a gold one to wear in public and an iron ring to wear at home while carrying out household duties. She wore it on her left hand as it was believed that what we now call the ‘ring finger’ contained a vein, the vena amoris, that led to the heart. Archduke Maximillian of Austria was the first to use a diamond ring to symbolize engagement in 1477 when he betrothed Mary of Burgundy. This started a trend within the upper class of using the diamond engagement ring to not only symbolize love, but also wealth and status. Confined mostly to the affluent for the next five hundred years, the diamond ring’s modern-day popularity didn’t begin until 1947 when De Beers launched the advertising campaign “A Diamond is Forever.”

While the saying ‘diamonds are a girl’s best friend’ still holds true, we are noticing a movement toward wedding jewelry that incorporates unique gemstones such as sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. And when a diamond is used, it strays away from traditional white in a round or princess cut. Just think of Kate Middleton’s blue sapphire, Katy Perry’s ruby, and Scarlett Johansson’s light brown diamond. Now these are extreme examples. Rest assured, you don’t have to be royalty or a leading Hollywood actress in order to have a dazzling gemstone the color of the deepest blue sea adorn your hand. What is so wonderful about ‘alternative’ wedding jewelry at the moment is that independent designers are leading the way, offering clients beautiful, custom-made pieces that work within any budget.

With engagement season just around the corner, we decided to reach out to NYC jewelry designers Lindsay Rogers of Casual Séance, Olivia Michaels of Olivia Michaels Jewelry and Sunim Choi of Ra Metals to learn more about their engagement and wedding jewelry collections.

Lindsay Rogers, Founder & Designer of Casual Séance

What drew you to designing engagement and wedding jewelry?
Admittedly, I am not big on tradition. Only just a few years ago, I felt as though everyone around me was following the same narrative –find a partner, plan a wedding, say “I DO,” settle down, and have kids. What I did notice while working at Fitzgerald Jewelry in Brooklyn, however, was that so many people from all different walks of life actually wanted to get married. Their approach to marriage completely changed my view of it as the cookie-cutter pageantry that plays out in magazines, TV, and movies. Rather, for the couples I was working with, it was about sentiment and creating a celebration in a way that was deeply personal and special.

So how does this relate to wedding jewelry design? When it comes to engagement rings and wedding bands, you don’t have to do what everyone else is doing. With Casual Séance, I found a space in alternative wedding jewelry that allowed me to help couples be different and write their own story, introducing them to gemstones like sapphires, emeralds, and salt and pepper diamonds, unique settings and metals.

Can you tell us about the collection? What kind of technique, gemstones, and metals do you like to use?
I usually use CAD (computer aided design) to make my engagement rings. I recently learned to use the program and am really enjoying how the process allows me to explore new and interesting designs. To make wedding brands, which tend to be simpler and more organic, I often make the initial model in wax – the technique that I started out with as a jewelry designer. With gemstones and metal, I aim to know as much as possible about the materials’ ethical traceability. I especially love working with sapphires and 22 karat gold.

Can you tell us about the creative inspiration for your designs?
I was first drawn to art and design during childhood and have been ‘making’ things for as long as I can remember. I actually went to business school. A friend recently said to me, “It’s as if you were avoiding this forever. You should have been making jewelry the whole time, but actively decided to go in the opposite direction.” Perhaps my hesitation stemmed from the fact that there is a lot of jewelry out there. I constantly ask, “How can I be different?” What has been successful for me is working backwards – I start with the gemstones. As mentioned before, I love sapphires. This gemstone is incredibly unique depending on where it come from – the ones from Australia are different from those in Madagascar, which are different from the Montana variety. I often use a mix of sapphires in my rings, which gives off an ombre impression. The wonderful thing about making engagement and wedding jewelry is that they are custom, allowing for you to take the time and care needed to begin with an idea, and see it through to becoming a really special piece.

What can people expect when they come to you for an engagement ring or wedding band?
My goal is to make the whole experience fun, affordable, and stress-free. I actually love when a client has no idea of what they want. Working in collaboration, we go through the gemstones, metals, and designs options that fit within their budget. I guide them through the process from start to finish, reaching an endpoint where they leave happy and have a ring that feels really special. A custom design usually takes 4 to 6 weeks – though it may take a little longer now because of Covid-19.

How does it feel knowing you are making jewelry that symbolizes such an important event in a couple’s life?
Of course, there’s the stress of knowing that an engagement ring is one of the biggest (and most meaningful) purchases a person makes in their lifetime. That being said, I feel like people who come to me… we are already on the same wavelength. For example, I recently had a client from Georgia who wanted a marquise sapphire in a teal color. She had been looking for over a year but couldn’t find one she liked. The nature of the stone makes it hard to cut a marquise shape nicely. I hunted down this beautiful marquise sapphire from Arizona and she absolutely loved it. She even flew to New York City in early March, the weekend right before COVID hit, to see the gemstone in person. Knowing that I was able to track down this unique sapphire that she had been waiting so long for, and use it to create a ring that carries such symbolic importance feels amazing.

If you could pick one bride-to-be throughout all of history to wear one of your engagement rings, who would it be?
This is such a difficult question, but I am going to pick Mariah Carey. She’s been married twice and engaged three times. Perhaps she should have a ‘casual’ 4^th engagement to herself. I would love to make her an engagement ring with a badass 10ct sapphire set in 22 karat gold. Victorian inspired of course, because she is a queen!

 

Olivia Michaels, Founder & Designer of Olivia Michaels Jewelry

What drew you to designing engagement and wedding jewelry?
After a few years of working in costume jewelry design, I was drawn to the idea of making pieces of jewelry that were meant to last forever. Designing work for season trends is not as rewarding as designing timeless collections, which are made up of pieces that people have a strong connection too and will be pass down through their family. I have been adapting my everyday wear collections into wedding and engagement pieces as well as working one-on-one with clients for custom work based on their preferences.

Can you tell us about the collection? What kind of technique, gemstones, and metals do you like to use?
My designs originate from the ability of plants and animals to survive in their own environment while adapting to live around the forms of our man-made world. The natural forms from which I draw inspiration lend themselves to the process of wax carving as this technique allows for more organic shapes. I use a mix of mainly white and salt and pepper diamonds. I love how the inclusions in a salt and pepper diamond really show the natural growing process of the stone, which takes billions of years to make. I work in all metals and specialize in recycling down gold of every karat. However, my preferred metal to work in is 14K Yellow as it lends itself best to the moving and shaping of material.

Can you tell us about the creative inspiration for your designs?
My Little Creatures Collection draws from the shapes of small animals that have adapted to survive in unique ways. For example, the shell-like forms on a pangolin’s back, a docile creature that uses its exterior as protection, is an evolutionary trait that is visually beautiful and symbolizes strength. Essentially, I want the wearer of my jewelry to feel they are being adorned with something that makes them feel strong. My Ruins Collection comes from a love of old buildings, which have been abandoned over time allowing plant like elements to sneak back in and adorn the structures.

What can people expect when they come to you for an engagement ring or wedding band?
I have worked for years in custom wedding and engagement ring making and design. I am happy when a client chooses from one of my ready-made designs. But I also look forward to sitting down with a client and helping them make their dream ring a reality. Clients can expect a collaborative experience in which we work together, taking their idea and turning it into a truly special piece with the ability to last forever. I geek out over metallurgy and stones – this enthusiasm and passion informs each of my designs. I love how each design brings new challenges that are exciting to explore – clients enjoy being a large part of the adventure.

How does it feel knowing you are making jewelry that symbolizes such an important event in a couple’s life?
I love hearing the stories behind each engagement. Building a relationship with clients is a wonderful and rewarding part of the wedding jewelry design process. Wedding and engagement rings should hold a lot of significance – this is often lost when buying mass produced jewelry. I consider myself extremely fortunate – I get to to make thoughtful, one-of-a-kind jewelry that is akin to a tattoo in the sense that it will adorn a person forever.

If you could pick one bride-to-be throughout all of history to wear one of your engagement rings, who would it be?
My work is unique and bold. I don’t make jewelry that is necessarily built for short term trends in the market. My choice would be someone who has a strong sense of their style and personality – Dolly Parton grew up knowing exactly who she wanted to be. She has a great sense of humor about her daring look and has never wavered away from it. It would be an honor to have someone like her, who exudes such confidence and self-assuredness, adorn herself with my jewelry.

 

 

 

 

 

Sunim Choi, Founder & Designer of Ra Metals

What drew you to designing engagement and wedding bands?
When I started making jewelry, I found inspiration in the works of ancient Egypt. I was especially drawn to the sun god Ra, which became my brand’s namesake, Ra  Metals. Ra is a ubiquitous deity that takes many forms from an eye to a sun disk, to a serpent to a beetle, and many more. His symbols can be found on walls of pyramids, tombs, and sarcophagi, as well as the garments and headdresses worn by pharaohs and queens. It is believed that adorning the eye of Ra would garner one protection in life and in death, helping them transition safely into the next realm of paradise referred to as The Field of Reeds.
I was drawn to the idea of making something tangible that holds so much meaning. So, it was very natural for me to transition my focus to engagement rings and wedding bands, which in many ways share the same importance.

Can you tell us about the collection? What kind of technique, gemstones, and metals do you like to use?
I always start with the stone. I’m attracted to atypical shapes and colors – it’s what I’m most drawn to. Currently, I find natural grey diamonds in half moon and marquise shapes alluring and exotic. Then the ideas start to percolate and form in my head. The designs come to life through sketching.

I like to use a mixture of straight metal fabrication, wax carving, and computer aided design. I let the design itself dictate which approach is best. If I want a more organic feel, I carve in wax. If I am using a client’s heirloom jewelry, I recycle the gold and fabricate straight in metal. For a very intricate design, I will use a C.A.D. (computer aided design). I mostly work in 14 karat yellow gold, which I love. To me it has the most beautiful color of all the metals. 14 karat gold has a very classic and elegant feel, which I prefer to juxtapose with uniquely shaped and colored stones.

Can you tell us about the creative inspiration for your designs?
The sun god Ra symbolized protection, strength, and foresight among many other things – I try to invoke that same symbolism by using stones shaped liked eyes or triangles and utilizing claw style settings. I also draw inspiration from pyramids, not only from Egypt but worldwide – Mexico, Guatemala, Peru, Cambodia, China, and Iraq. It’s so fascinating how every ancient civilization left a legacy within these immaculate towering pyramids around the world.

What can people expect when they come to you for an engagement ring and/or wedding band?
We are a small company, which means every step of the process, from design to production, goes directly through me. I believe that if a client is entrusting me with creating a piece to commemorate such an important life event, I should reciprocate and take the time to make sure that they are completely happy with what they get. I source from reputable suppliers who are Kimberly or Fair Trade certified and use only recycled metals.

How does it feel knowing you are making jewelry that symbolizes such an important event in a couple’s life?
I feel a sense of gratitude. The fact that I am able to do what I love while creating something meaningful for another feels truly incredible. I like to imagine my pieces being passed on to future generations.

If you could pick one bride-to-be throughout all of history to wear one of your engagement rings, who would it be?
This may seem like the obvious answer but Cleopatra VII. She was a badass – well educated, spoke as many as a dozen languages, and served as a dominant ruler. She also provided us with one of the most tragic love stories of all time. During the Battle of Actium, Marcus Antonius stabbed himself with his sword in the mistaken belief that Cleopatra had already died. When he found out that Cleopatra was still alive, his friends brought him to Cleopatra’s monument, where she had been hiding, and he died in her arms. Heartbroken and destined to marry Octavian, Cleopatra took her own life. My modern-day muses are Björk and Tilda Swinton. When it comes to artistry and style, both of these women are on a completely different level than the rest of us.

 

 

 

A big thank you to Lindsay, Olivia, and Sunim for taking the time to talk with us! We hope their gorgeous rings expand your horizons of how wedding jewelry is created and what it should look like. After all, custom-made, unique, personalized service and care, and transparency are all aspects that make shopping for an engagement ring an exciting, pleasurable, and once-in-a-lifetime experience. In addition to coming away with an exquisite piece of jewelry, you’ll have a meaningful story to tell of how it came to be.